Yesterday, I warmed up on a 5.10c. (I had to cheat on one move -- I don't know what the story is there, because the angles just don't seem to work out without being a few inches taller, and they're usually good about keeping things possible for the under-six-foot crowd. Maybe a hold got turned; if that right handhold had been sideways instead of straight up it might have helped.) Then I climbed a couple 5.10ds, and a 5.11a, and a couple more 5.10ds, and finished off with a nice new 5.?, which turned out to have a broken hold and should have been labeled 5.PAIN because (later, after the broken hold) it violently separated part of the outer layer of my skin from the underlayer, so my index finger has a really nasty red blister thing and I had to tie my shoes mostly one-handed and get Andres to take the wrapper off the straw for my milkshake afterward. But I got to the top, so I feel very accomplished.
Getting up this morning I felt about 100 years old, but the stiffness is improving now. My hand is better too; as I predicted, now only the blistered part hurts when prodded and the rest of it has settled back down into being skin.
I retain the accomplished feeling, and I'm very curious about what they eventually rate that sucker.